From Almaty: 4-Day Charyn, Kolsai Lakes & Turgen Gorge Tour

Begin at Medeu (1691 m), one of the highest mountain ice rinks in the world. In winter the ice is mirror-smooth; in summer the stadium turns into a cool mountain amphitheater, with a walk along the dam and views down the gorge. Late in the morning, ride the cable cars up to Shymbulak (2260 m); the upper line carries you to the top station at Talgar Pass (3200 m), with a wide panorama of the Trans-Ili Alatau. Shymbulak is a ski and snowboard resort in winter and a hiking base with mountain-view cafés in summer. In the late afternoon, take the cable car up Kok-Tobe (about 1,100 m), the city’s signature lookout. All of Almaty lies at your feet with the mountains behind; around sunset the peaks turn pink and the city lights come on in the valley. Return to Almaty by evening.

An early start from Almaty (around 06:00–07:00) for the long drive to Charyn Canyon, which stretches for 154 km. Walk through its best-known section, the Valley of Castles, a 2–3 km trail along the river between jagged towers where the midday sun turns the red sandstone to copper. Late in the morning, see Moon Canyon, a neighboring valley of gray and bluish rock with bare, sculpted slopes. Around midday, visit Black Canyon, with volcanic walls and narrow passages, dark against Charyn’s red. In the afternoon, walk around the first Kolsai Lake (1818 m), a turquoise surface ringed by centuries-old Tien Shan spruces. Return to Almaty late in the evening. This is a day of about 14 hours, much of it on the road.

Start at the museum of the “Golden Man”, with a replica of a Saka warrior of the 4th century BCE, his ceremonial costume covered with 4000 gold plaques. He is the main symbol of modern Kazakhstan, and the original was found in a burial mound near the town of Esik. Later in the morning, drive up to Issyk Lake (1756 m), with conifer-covered slopes and clear water. Then continue into Turgen Gorge and walk to Bear Waterfall, 30 meters high: the roar of water, a rainbow in the spray, and a coolness you can feel a hundred steps before the cascade itself. In the afternoon, have lunch at a trout farm in Turgen, with fresh fish grilled beside the mountain river. Return to Almaty by evening.

Begin with a walk through Panfilov Park, a shaded green area in the city center with the memorial to the 28 Panfilov heroes who fell near Moscow in 1941. Old oaks, quiet alleys and the sound of bells give a taste of old Alma-Ata inside the modern city. Next, visit the Zenkov Cathedral of 1907, one of the tallest wooden churches in the world, built without a single nail and standing after the earthquake that leveled half the city. Inside is an iconostasis from the late 19th century; the golden domes outside rise 56 meters. Later in the morning, tour the Ykhlas Museum of Folk Musical Instruments, with a collection of 1200 dombras, kobyzes and jetigens. The guide will play a kui, Kazakh instrumental poetry that is best understood live. Then stop at the Eternal Flame in Panfilov Park, a memorial of granite, fire and silence for the soldiers of the Great Patriotic War. After lunch, go to the Green Bazaar, operating since 1875, a true eastern market with piles of dried apricots and raisins, rows of kazy and shuzhuk (horse sausage), barrels of mountain honey from the jailau, and friendly vendors who let you taste before buying. Next, visit the flagship Rahat chocolate store, the oldest Kazakh brand, with gift boxes in 1970s design, a good spot to pick up gifts. Then look in at TSUM, a Soviet department store on Zhibek Zholy where you can still find souvenirs, felt and local clothing at good prices. Finish with a stroll along pedestrian Zhibek Zholy, Almaty’s “Arbat,” with street artists, guitarists at sunset, stalls of local handmade goods and cafés where you can catch your breath after an active itinerary.