From Almaty: 6-Day Altyn-Emel, Kolsai & Kaindy Lakes Tour

Explore Altyn-Emel National Park, 4600 km² of desert landscapes with herds of kulans and goitered gazelles, where the sheer size of the open space is felt physically. The long drive from Almaty (about 290 km) leads to the Aktau chalk mountains, pink, green and blue bands of Paleocene rock, 56–66 million years old, left by a sea that is long gone. Closer to lunch, stop at the Katutau colored mountains, volcanic rocks sculpted by the wind into strange forms. In the afternoon, a short stop by the 700-year-old willow in the village of Basshi, a living tree whose trunk remembers the era of the Golden Horde. Then settle into Basshi village, the gateway to Altyn-Emel: a quiet aul at the foot of the ridge where the air smells of steppe and burned straw and the guesthouse serves a simple, hearty dinner. Overnight in Basshi.

In the morning, climb Singing Dune, a 150-meter dune 1.5 kilometers long. On the descent, the dry sand hums with a low, deep note, and the sound really does come from under your feet. After the dune, continue to the Chundzha thermal springs, mineral water at 39–45°C that eases fatigue after the dunes and the long road. Chundzha lies in the southeast of the region, a convenient place to break the journey. Overnight at the thermal base in Chundzha.

Descend into Charyn Canyon and walk through the “Valley of Castles”, a 2–3 km section of the 154 km canyon where jagged towers line the river and the midday sun melts the cliffs into copper. Then see Moon Canyon, a neighboring valley of Charyn with gray and bluish rock formations like a lunar landscape. Closer to lunch, visit Black Canyon with volcanic walls and narrow passages, a dark palette in sharp contrast to red Charyn. In the afternoon, walk around the first Kolsai Lake (1818 m), surrounded by Tien Shan spruces. Then transfer to Saty village, a mountain aul in Kolsai Lakes National Park and the starting base for Kolsai and Kaindy. Overnight in Saty; guesthouse dinners here are home-cooked.

A day for Kaindy Lake, formed after the 1911 earthquake. Spruce trunks rise from the water like the masts of a sunken fleet, and the turquoise surface between them is among the most recognizable images of Kazakhstan. The group sets out from Saty village in the morning, with no long drive ahead, and the rest of the day is unhurried. Overnight in Saty again.

An early start from Saty and a long drive (about 250 km) lead to Assy Plateau (2500 m), endless alpine meadows with shepherds' yurt camps and the Assy-Turgen astronomical observatory. The plateau is known for its dark skies, among the darkest in Central Asia. On the way down, hike to Bear Waterfall, 30 meters high: the roar of the water, a rainbow in the spray and cool air you feel a hundred steps before the cascade itself. In the afternoon, visit Issyk Lake (1756 m), with conifer-covered slopes, clear water and Saka royal kurgans in the valley nearby. Then the road leads to Almaty (about 70 km). It is a long day, much of it on mountain roads, and the group returns in the evening.